Day thirty-two: Barrandale rest area to supposedly Coral Bay. Start time: 9:30am Arrival time: 1:30pm Odometer: 90717
Today was rather uneventful so I’ll keep it short. I got up about 6:45am and made a ripper fire (I love fires as some of you may know) out of not much kindling. I played around with it for ages and tried to makes some damper. Burnt on the outside – still gluggy on the inside.
Lou woke up a couple of hours later and we had a quick breakfast and head out. We couldn’t remember which way we had come from as we left the rest area so Lou whipped out the compass dad gave me and we finally started in the right direction.
We had planned to bypass Exmouth and save ourselves some time by doing the whale shark diving in Coral Bay but when we arrived they told us they’d run out of whale sharks and now they were only in Exmouth. Back track #2.
We got to Exmouth after lunch, booked the diving, booked a caravan park and then finally got connected to the internet so I could upload the blog and photos and chat to some (very much) loved people from home.
Song of the day: (Thanks to Kate McCann) Two great sing along songs that I played quite a bit; That’s what friends are for AND Close to you by The Carpenters. Quality.
Funniest part: Watching Louisa dry retch up some mushy kiwi fruit that had been sitting on the dashboard and cooking in the sun.
Day thirty-three: Whale Shark diving in Exmouth.
Today was the day I had been looking forward to all trip.
It was an early rise of 6am to have some breakfast pizza and sustagen gold before being picked up at 7:30am.
It took an hour to get to the boating ramp and during that hour we were given instructions on what to expect and some information on the actual Whale Sharks.
(We were also lucky to see three emus having some kind of fight with a couple of crows)
We got to the boat ramp about 8:30am and were taken in speed boats out to the big yacht. We were told that the spotter plane would take off about 10am and we were told to be ready from that time onwards to jump into the water and witness these beautiful creatures. We were all given wet-suits and goggles and had a pre-reef snorkel just to have a practice.
Now poor Lou had been quite anxious about the snorkeling as she’d had some bad experiences with it and when she first jumped in she had a bit of a panic. I tried to help her calm down a bit but it was quite rough in the ocean (reminded me of when Carol and I were in Mauritius on the Catamaran and they ploughed us with heaps of Mauritian rum and then allowed us to go snorkeling in extremely rough conditions. It was an effort just to stay afloat let alone look for things) and she ended up going to the instructor for help. It was the best thing to do as they gave her a noodle (you know those foam pole things you use in the pool) and she was fine!
We got back into the boat, had some snacks and took off for the reef.
We arrived at the reef just as ten o’clock came about and saw the spotter plane circling overhead. In no less than five minutes they had reported a spotting and we took off at high speeds to get to the Whale Shark. Unfortunately when we got close it dived down and was never to be seen again. But the excitement! The whole boat was like a class full of A-grade students, all sitting up straight and ready to go.
The second call came in an agonizing two hours later. It wasn’t too bad a wait as during this time we witnessed a multitude of dolphins, mantarays and humpback whales doing their thing in the ocean. It was magnificent, especially the humpback whales jumping out of the ocean. How those huge beasts can get their whole body weight out of the ocean and look so graceful is beyond me.
Sadly the second Whale Shark had taken a dive too, just like the Italians in the World Cup. I was starting to get quite sad by this time as there was no guarantee that we would get to see them.
Thankfully at about 1pm a call came in and everyone suited up and got into position. (The whole time I just sat around in my wet-suit too excited and worried I’d miss out if I got out of the thing) We had previously been split into two groups of ten so that there wouldn’t be too many people around the shark and Lou and I had been put into group 2. So we had to sit there and watch as group 1 jumped into the ocean, all the time praying that the damn thing didn’t dive and we would get to have a look at it.
It didn’t, and our instructor told us to get ready to jump. I was so excited. We jumped in and took off on quite a hard swim against the current until our instructor gave us the sign to look down.
Wow.
What a sight.
What a beautiful sight - such a graceful, massive fish just swimming by only about a metre under the water. I looked up to see if Lou was looking and the poor thing had had another panic attack and couldn’t put her head under. She kept saying ‘I can’t do it, I just can’t put my head under” and in desperation I just kinda yelled “It’s just there! Just put your head under a little bit!” and thank the lord she did it.
It all happened so quickly and I felt like I hadn’t seen enough so was relieved to find out that we were going to be doing more dives and would have a chance to look again.
The second dive was hilarious. I was paddling and kicking madly when the instructor again gave us the signal to look down. I looked down and saw a big metre long mouth coming towards me and screamed.
“It’s coming!”
I’ve never seen so many people trying to back paddle.
We had 4 more dives after that and all were spectacular. The water was quite clear (and apparently 80 – 90metres deep) but it wasn’t till the last minute that you could actually spot the Whale Shark. It was like a creepy game of Hide and Seek and I managed to freak myself out happily a couple of times.
The second last dive was the best when only me Lou and Liz (new friend) swam out further and were able to watch the Whale Shark without any peoples arms, flippers or bubbles in our way. I started a bit over-excited with my huge jump off the boat and did a bit of a face plant. The dive that followed though was almost the exact same as the second dive - where I put my head under the water and basically just saw a metre long mouth coming towards me. These things don’t move particularly fast but it still gives you quite a fright and makes you try and move as fast as you possibly can out of the way. I’d say we were only a metre away when it swam by (all 8metres of it) with little sharks and fish happily swimming under its belly and fins.
I got dressed shortly after feeling mighty happy with myself about the day and walked up to the front of the yacht to see if I could see any more marine life. Apparently the skipper thought it would be funny to try and get everyone on the front of the yacht wet with a spray of water and proceeded to steer the yacht into some hard core waves. As has always happens in my life, the spray got me and no one else. I took myself and my soggy shorts and jumper down below and watched safely from there and cried until we got to shore. (just kidding about the crying)
Great day.
Such a great day I decided to celebrate by having a shower when I got back to camp.
Day thirty-four: Exmouth to Denham via Carnarvon. Start time: 6:30am Arrival time: Odometer: 91607
Lou had decided that she was getting up to do an early morning drive so we could make it to the Farmers Markets at Carnarvon.
Of course I had to get up and help her load the car because I was too excited but after the initial set up I hopped back into the bed and lay there for 1½hours daydreaming about certain things while she drove.
At about 9am we pulled into a service station and we swapped drivers as Lou’s ankles were hurting from all the flipper action the previous day.
It took another 2 hours before we pulled into the very pleasant Carnarvon. It is a really pretty town with lots of banana plantations and lots of fresh grapefruits, avocados and mangoes etc. It also sits right on the bay and has lots of lovely park areas and palm trees. It really is a little oasis in the middle of nowhere.
We bought some fresh fruit and veg and god forbid I even bought myself a T-shirt (I might start doing this instead of washing) and a ring. We bought some rice paper rolls for lunch (from an Irish girl), had a coffee by the bay, filled up the gas bottle and took off for Monkey Mia. (The most westerly point in Australia)
Best road name: Useless loop road
Song of the day: Night and Day, Ella Fitzgerald.
Best bit: The sun is back (It rained in Exmouth)
Day thirty-five: Eagle Bluff camp site (23kms from Denham) to Geraldton. Start time: 7am Arrival time: 2pm Odometer: 92000
Today we woke up at 6am to watch a beautiful sunrise at Eagle Bluff campground. We were the only ones at the campground so when we arrived after dinner we pumped the music up a bit and had a bit of a dance.
We had gone to dinner at the Old Pearler restaurant run by a lovely man Wayne Viney, that is made up from shell bricks. Apparently there were so many sea shells they used to make bricks out of them and build all the houses and other buildings out of them. I think the Old Pearler is the only place left made out of these.
Anywho, this morning we drove down to Monkey Mia with some awesome sun-glare nearly forcing me off the road. It took about half an hour and when we arrived to see the dolphins the car park was already half full. We ran down and tried to shove some small children out of the way but managed to only get second in line.
The dolphins were very cute and looked all smiley like they do. We weren’t allowed to touch them of course because apparently (as the ranger told us) the people in the 70’s touched them and fed them too much and ruined it for all of us.
We took of with our destination being Geraldton (lobster capital of Australia) for a huge seafood lunch or dinner depending on what time we got there. Lou drove because my neck had started to cramp due to all the Whale Shark looking we’d done and how incredibly uncomfortable it is getting sleeping in the small double bed.
(We have a few big days of driving ahead as we over-relaxed in Broome. We were to spend another day in Denham/Monkey Mia but we decided to take off early and halve our 700km day trip we’d previously (crazily) decided)
We arrived in Geraldton and booked into a campsite that seemed to be more like a retirement village and smelt like one.
After that we went into town (which architecturally is a completer mish mash of styles – see photo of Sunny thinking over a mega rubix cube) and had some dinner.
Song of the day: Lovesong, The Cure.
Near animal hit of the day: Lou again, with an emu this time.
Brain fry of the day: Me trying to do a 5 star sodoku for a couple of hours and then mucking it up in the end. I am no Jude Tsai.
Day thirty-six: Geraldton to Freemantle (quite apparent home of the Fremantle Dockers) Start time: 8:30am Arrival time: 4:30pm Odometer: 92436
Today was a pure day of driving, watching Scarface and not much else.
We had lunch at Little Creatures and I bought myself some Pipsqueak undies.
We drove to the Freemantle Village Caravan Park and stayed in an awesome powered site that had some great toilets and a great communal room. We ended up making dinner in the communal room and watching the Michael Jackson special, showering and going to bed.
Thankfully, when I went to go to the toilet again at 4am someone had left my clothes (and wallet still full of money and credit cards) on the bench because I had left them in the shower. Stupid.
May I add here that the amenities around Australia have been outstanding. I thought they would be second rate and a bit smelly but to be honest they are better looked after and a hell of a lot less stinkier than most toilets in Melbourne.
Day thirty-seven: Fremantle to Margaret River Start time: 9:09am Arrival time: 1:13pm Odometer: Forgot.
Today was another big day of driving. Louisa has been having some car/boat/anything that moves movement issues lately and decided to take one of her sea-sickness tablets. I think it made her worse, but eventually she fell asleep and I got to drive to Margaret River in silence with some music playing in my head. (Underneath the Radar seemed to be popular)
We drove straight to the Xanadu winery (owned by Olivia Newton John of course) and tried some wine. After purchasing a bottle we went to the very scenic Leewin Estate and had some lunch. It was a gorgeous, vast winery and my lunch of snapper with asparagus and raisins was simply divine.
After lunch we went to the Information centre to try and find an apartment to stay in for a couple of nights. Not sure if it’s because we’re nearing the end of the trip or because we’ve slept in the bed for too long but it really is getting mighty uncomfortable and we both have very stiff backs and necks. We found a great one in town and spread all our stuff out and just watched some DVDs.
Song of the day: Sorry to say it’s Mariah Cary, Hero. I know it’s not cool but it’s a great power ballad to sing along too.
Best river name: Margaret river.
Best winery name: Island brook
Other best winery name: Brookland
Day thirty-eight: Margaret River.
Now I know that when you’re in Margaret River you should be out looking at the wineries but we really needed a rest day.
It was quite obvious because in a normal bed we ended up sleeping for 10 hours. We had tried to stay awake for the Michael Jackson memorial, but when you hit a comfy bed after a couple of weeks sleep is the only thing beckoning.
We did go for a bit of a midday walk to see the town and organize our wine tour for tomorrow and get some veggies. After that Lou went to get an hour long massage and I did a mini home work out followed by about half an hour of stretching. It felt great. After the stretching I sat down to update the blog with a glass of wine and some cheese and crackers whilst listening to Mariah Carrey (god, I’m so sorry to admit that but I have some very fond memories of being a soppy, soppy romantic, angsty teenager and singing love songs in my bedroom to people who I had mega crushes on).
That night we had some roast veggies with a lovely bit of snapper, some wine and another great sleep in a big comfy bed.
Song of the day: Sorry again. Mariah Carey, All I ever wanted. (Sung power ballad, love stricken teenage style by myself in the apartment while Lou was having a massage – about 3 times)
Thought of the day: I know its wrong but while watching the Michael Jackson memorial replay I half expected his coffin to open and ‘Thriller’ to start.
Idiot of the day: Me burning the tops of three of my fingers in the oven.